‘Every Culinary Artist Ought to Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.

Lindsay Castro
Lindsay Castro

A passionate interior designer and DIY enthusiast from London, sharing practical home improvement tips and creative decor solutions.